As an A-level fashion and textiles student, I love a fashion show. To me, they are the epitome of a designer’s expression, allowing them to share with the world their creativity, views, and pure talent. My favourite times of year are those periods of frantic fashion weeks all over the world where you can watch an extraordinarily diverse range of shows from elegant Dior (see below) to classy Chanel or fierce McQueen.
Dior’s AW24 Show – Image taken from: https://www.dior.com/en_gb/fashion/womens-fashion/haute-couture-shows/autumn-winter-2023-2024-haute-couture-show
Of course, anyone can appreciate the intricacy and skill that goes into making these gorgeous designs coming from the well-known haute-couture brands. However, something that not everyone appreciates, but my personal favourite type of show, is usually the more controversial type.
When I say controversial, I mean a show that brings an emotional reaction. That could be sadness, anger, confusion, or anything really. Fashion isn’t just as simple as what you wear – it’s a form of expression and just like art it can be powerful enough to evoke strong emotions within the observer.
Alexander McQueen, one of my favourite haute-couture designers, said “I don’t want to do a cocktail party dress every season; I want to do a dress that evokes something emotionally.” This quote clearly shows his values as a designer. He didn’t care about being liked or fitting in with standards of fashion at the time. He was uniquely himself, not scared of touchy subjects, creating designs which were loaded with history, emotion, and meaning.
Unfortunately, during his career working on his own label as well as Givenchy, McQueen received lots of criticism from the public about his designs. Many people just didn’t get it. Why make trousers so low they become inappropriate? Why send models in ripped dresses stumbling down the runway? They saw these garments only at surface level, failing to dive into the meaning behind them.
This is the issue with fashion. Just like any other art form, often people are unable to have an appreciation for the whole meaning. However, as this form is wearable, many people expect it to be solely practical. Obviously most pieces on display in shows aren’t bought by the general public – it’s much more likely that celebrities borrow looks to wear on red carpets etc. However, when the public sees something that they couldn’t imagine someone actually wearing, there’s a controversy.
Let’s take an example of a viral graduate collection from Central Saint Martins, a world-renowned college for fashion and design. This was part of a collection from graduate student Fredrik Tjærandsen back in 2019 and took the internet by storm. I discovered this through a video I saw on social media a few years ago and immediately admired the creativity that went into the designs. Tjærandsen used latex to create blow up balloon type garments, some of which shape shifted into skirts/dresses.
Image showing Tjærandsen’s collection on display. Collection name: Moments of Clarity. Image Credit: Mika Kailes. Image from: https://designmuseum.org/exhibitions/beazley-designs-of-the-year/fashion/moments-of-clarity-collection
I’ve shown videos of Tjærandsen’s collection to multiple people, and it’s received pretty mixed reactions. Some have agreed with me, that this collection is a display of insane creativity and innovation that is completely new and original. On the contrary, some simply took one look and laughed, asking what’s the point and why would anyone ever wear that?
I could be wrong, but I don’t think Fredrik Tjærandsen is suggesting you wear one of his outfits on your next trip to the shops. This isn’t a collection that we are very likely to see on the red carpet anytime soon (though we could…who knows?) but it is a collection that evokes an emotion from the audience and gives them more of an experience.
So, should fashion shows be practical and display realistic clothing all the time? Personally, I don’t think so. The most exciting shows that I’ve seen online are the ones with more depth and meaning. Of course, I still appreciate the gorgeous dresses or tailored suits that appear at the Met Gala or Grammy’s every year, but I also love the intrigue that a more abstract fashion piece brings. When you connect the theme of a show to the garments, or discover its historical connections, that’s when you get the most out of the show.
I appreciate that many people still won’t understand the point of a fashion show if you couldn’t wear the pieces out, but I think it’s important to remember that not all designs need to have a strict function. They are made to be indulged by others and create reactions. So next time when you feel confused by a runway show you see on social media, remember that that emotion was most likely exactly the intention of the designer. Sit back, embrace it, and maybe you will gain a new appreciation for this side of fashion.
